Traversia Paso el León: to refugio el Arco (GPT21)

26 February 2018
Paso El Leon Huella

It’s peak season in Bariloche. What once was a destination for the adventurous traveller, is now a party destination for the young and a luxurious destination for the little less young.

This is my fourth visit to the town and my previous visit wasn’t memorable. I believe I’m a bit too old for scruffy bunk beds in a cellar, rancid bathrooms and too drunken and too noisy roommates. Continue Reading…

Ruta de 5 Lagunas: from Laguna CAB to Colonia Suiza

24 February 2018
Cinco Lagunas Nahuel Huapi trail

Today it’s cold: Tarptents’ fly is covered in a layer of ice and a fresh layer snow has fallen a bit higher up the mountain. Leaving the warmth of my sleeping bag is hard: the only way to get to the other side of Laguna CAB is through Laguna CAB.

Around 9:30 I’m ready to leave. Wearing every piece of Gore-Tex and warm clothing I carry. Continue Reading…

Ruta de los Jesuitas / Paso de Vuriloche (GPT21) Part 1

16 February 2018
Paso Vuriloche

From Santiago the night bus brings me about 1000 kilometers to the south. Arriving at the chilly Puerto Montt bus station at 6.30 am I can’t say that I’m fit for a hike. First there’s a second bus, to Ralún, which is close to climbers paradise La Junta near Cochamó. Since it’s peak season I’m definitely not the only one waiting at the bus stop. Fortunately, the bus turns out not to be one, but two buses. Continue Reading…

GPT4 Alto Huemul: the old trail

28 January 2018

Tsjop… Tsjop… Tsjop… This is a new sound! Next to the trail: fresh chopped bushes. An arriero is busy waving around his scythe.’¡Ola !’, I shout, because he’s not aware of my presence. We chat a little. ‘Where am I coming from and where do I go?’. ‘That’s the old route’, is what I understand. Well, that sounds promising! Continue Reading…

GPT6 Volcán Descabezado / Sendero del Cóndor (part 2)

25 January 2018

Today it’s supposed to be raining. Even though the sky is covered with impressive, dark clouds, it’s not. I’m happy with the clouds. The trail is like a XXL cat litter box: white and dusty sand and small rocks. This stage is very exposed; there are no trees, there’s no shade and only where water flows there’s some colour to be seen.  Continue Reading…