Kroatië, Via Dinarica

Stage 4 & 5 Izvor Kupe – Crni Lug – Fužine

14 juni 2016

The first few km’s hiking from Izvor Kupe are nice, then I hit another paved forest road.

The thing goes on and on and on. Endless asphalt. Endless turns. Endless forest. In the heat of the day. There is zero traffic, so I listen to some upbeat music on my phone. Then, this road hits a bigger road. Again, endless asphalt, topped with cars. Oh what joy is hiking out here!

At the convenient store in Crni Lug I buy myself an ice-cream, soda pop and a bag of crisps. Bread has sold out at the end of the day. I then continue hiking to the entrance of Risnjak NP. The hotel is closed due to renovation, the restaurant is open (including wifi, yeah!). Since camping (or bivouac and hitting bears, see sign on entrance ticket) isn’t allowed, I stayed at a sobre (room) just down the road.

Running up to Schlosserov dom

I’m in a shower, wearing my clothes and backpack. It’s raining, cats and dogs, and frogs and the whole arch of Noah… The hike up the mountain to the dom is a nice one, I did not see a lot of it though. At the dom they’re only serving bean soup, only-bean-soup sounds delicious to me!


Dom Lepenica

It doesn’t stop raining, so after waiting for a while I hit the trail again. That evening I arrive soaking wet at dom Lepenica – a little off trail. The dom is only open in the weekends, but I guess it’s OK if I use the garden. It’s got picknick tables, a stream running next to it and a campfire area.


Bushwhacking, again

A few kilometers after leaving the dom and back on the Dinarica, it’s obvious this trail doesn’t get used a lot. At a some points it’s pretty OK hiking, at other points I’m up to my chest in the bushes, the nasty, stinging ones. At again, another point I’m even up to my head in the bushes, yeah that was fun!

Just after passing over the A6 highway I’m done with the bushwhacking. I find an old, unused and unpaved road and hike a fast hike to Fužine.


In the small town of Fužine the lady of the tourist office helps me to find a place to stay – a nice and quite hostel (a group of Buddhists are heaving a silence retreat). The convenient store is, again, well stocked for buying resupply on the go and there’s even free wifi in the town center.

Tomorrow I’m taking a zero. My photo camera is broken and I’m taking a bus to Rijeka to buy a new one.

Stage 4 & 5 Via Dinarica

Check this link for GPS-tracks and more info about this stage.

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This blog has blog has been written on trail and on a mobile phone.

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  • German Tourist 15 juni 2016 at 11:51

    Keep up writing these excellent trail reports – I am following then closely because I want to hike the Dinarica next year. Thank you for your efforts!

    • Claire 15 juni 2016 at 11:58

      Ah the Germans are coming 😉 thank you and I hope you enjoy your hike!